Our favorite festival is back! Online ‘pundits’ have complained about a lack of strong headliners whose names capable of pulling large crowds, and they’re right. Usual rock suspects Idles and Fontaines DC are unlikely to draw Pixies or Tame Impala levels of people with daily tickets; Killer Mike might be one of the biggest names in the more ‘tasteful’ international hip hop scene, but he’s no Kendrick Lamar; and Thursday doesn’t have a single artist worthy of headliner status on a 20-30k people festival.
But the question is: does it really matter? The festival is at its most pleasant whenever it’s 20% below capacity, anyway. The drift away from the ‘mega headliner’ format that Primavera Sound Porto is now adopting was a winning formula in 2023, and we’re glad to see it stick – even if it was not intentional. To make up for it, the undercard of the lineup is phenomenal, probably its best ever, to the point that there’s an additional band each day playing the secondary Yorn stage, even taking some of the usual DJ set spots. Sure, maybe staying up until 6 am every day isn’t the best thing a thirty-something should do with their life, but we’re not saying no to bands like Sextile or Tramhaus. Read on to find out which ten artists – only one of them plays the main stage – we decided to write about this year, download our classic printable/mobile timetables, and listen to our playlist.
Vodafone Paredes de Coura runs from 14 to 17 August 2024 (but there’s music from the 11th); daily tickets are available for €60 and 4-day passes for €120. Camping is free for ticket holders. Check their website for all info.
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800 GONDOMAR (Super Bock Vila stage, Tue 13, 22:30)
Before the whole thing starts at the beautiful green banks of the Coura river we call home, whoever can afford a full week of holidays is treated to three days of Portuguese bands – most of them attending the entire festival, lots of them camping there – playing free shows at the town’s main square, drawing visitors and locals alike. Power trio 800 Gondomar will turn up the heat on the eve of the first ‘proper’ day of the festival. They’re loud, they’re fast, and they’re probably already ripe enough for the big stage – let’s hope nobody has to cancel their show, but, like Máquina last year, I believe they’ll be on the pole position to seize the opportunity if needed.
Sababa 5 (Yorn stage, Wed 14, 18:50)
The London-based Batov Records imprint has been synonymous with quality leftfield “world” music for a while (see, for example, the excellent Liraz or El Khat). Their worst kept secret, however, is the Israeli quartet Sababa 5. Known for fusing Eastern and Western influences, they have just released a stunning collaboration album with Japanese singer Yurika Hanashima that shows off their versatility. Following up on the trail blazed by the likes of BBNG, DOMi & JD Beck, Khruangbin, or Yin Yin in the past few years, together with Glass Beams – who perform later the same day – they might just be the perfect Paredes de Coura band.
Model/Actriz (Yorn stage, Wed 14, 03:00)
Model/Actriz are the kind of band that, regardless of your taste, you need to see at least once, and you better see them now. The New York-based funky and darkish noise rock band was made for the wired environment of a late night, post-headliner slot at the smaller stage. Will vocalist Cole Haden spend half of the show amongst the audience? You better get there early to figure that out for yourself.
Acid Acid (Jazz na Relva stage, Thu 15, 16:00)
One of the highlights of the chillest stage of the festival, the riverside free-access Jazz na Relva stage, is Lisbon-based Acid Acid. Last time we’ve heard about the project of radio broadcaster Tiago Castro, four years ago, he was paying homage to Chilean filmmaker Alejandro Jodorowsky with a synth-heavy, two-track LP. No idea what he’s bringing to the table this time, might as well just show up.
Deeper (Yorn stage, Thu 15, 19:00)
I’m not lying when I say this festival’s lineup has one of the strongest “undercards” we’ve seen in recent times, and its careful curation probably has its highlight here. There are more than a few bands riding the tenth wave – we’ve lost count, to be honest – of the whole catchy post-punky schtick, but there aren’t many doing it better than Chicago’s Deeper. Popular enough to be able to tour internationally, but still on that sweet spot where you can catch them in their natural habitat: a sweaty mess of a room where only a few introverts wouldn’t dare to dance. Or the Yorn stage at 7pm, I guess.
Conferência Inferno (Yorn stage, Fri 16, 17:30)
Are they the Iberian Talking Heads, a bizarre entity made up of the coalesced remains of all the best Portuguese underground bands of the fertile mid-80s, or are Conferência Inferno just their own thing? Not just any thing: the real thing, too. The new wave trio from Porto is one of the hottest bands in Portugal right now and I can’t help but feel their energetic set is kind of out of place at such an early spot. Well, at least they don’t have to play three or four hours into my sleeping schedule (read below).
Tramhaus (Yorn stage, Fri 16, 04:35)
My guess is that Dutch post-punk-ish quintet Tramhaus did not sign up for a 4:35 AM show, but it won’t matter. I’ve seen the Rotterdam outfit tear up small venues, large skateparks and tiny record shops at random times of the day, and it won’t be a problem to do it during the night shift either. When you see them on stage, it’s hard to believe they’re yet to release their first LP – The First Exit will be out next September, and we can’t wait.
Hurray for the Riff Raff (Vodafone stage, Sat 17, 18:10)
Time for a slight detour to the main stage so we can highlight Alynda Segarra’s Hurray for the Riff Raff. Segarra spearheads a loose movement of New Orleans-based Americana misfits that we’ve been championing here for years (think: The Deslondes, Esther Rose, and the whole Mashed Potato Records crew), and it’s great to see them representing the scene at the big stage. Ten years after their breakthrough album Small Town Heroes, Segarra will be presenting their new album, The Past is Still Alive, highlighted on our playlist last February.
Palehound (Yorn stage, Sat 17, 19:00)
El Kempner’s fourth full-length as Palehound is a treatise on indie rock songwriting, catchy and punchy guitar riffs highlighting their poetry. Live, these songs are an even more exciting affair, as I had the pleasure of witnessing last spring during their small club Euro tour. Kempner’s songs sound heavier and more fleshed out as a quartet – let’s hope they’re not overshadowed by a chatty, not that interested crowd that often plagues this time slot.
Superchunk (Yorn stage, Sat 17, 00:40)
Saving the best for last: while a big chunk of the public will be (rightfully) gearing up to Fontaines DC’s great finale on the main stage, the legendary institution Superchunk will treat whoever still has a pair of functioning feet to a treaty in proper indie rock. In a way, their career mirrors that of Dinosaur Jr: a slew of great early 90s records, followed by a period of inactivity, and second golden period where every album is an absolute banger (see: 2010’s fantastic Majesty Shredding, for example). A rare opportunity to witness a show of one of the best to ever do it in their genre. Superchunk barely tour Europe, and past shows in Portugal are unheard of, so make sure you save some energy for the last night of the festival.
Those are our top 10 picks, but that’s not all: from the absolute legends Slowdive to the hardrocking Mdou Moctar, and of course not forgetting Protomartyr, one of our favorite guitar bands that I’m sure you love too, there’s plenty of fun to be had at Paredes de Coura. Use our playlist below to get in the mood for the festival, and see you there.