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Vodafone Paredes de Coura 2013: a prelude

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Deer Tick at the Paredes de Coura festival 2012. Amílcar Rodrigues

Vodafone Paredes de Coura 2013 starts in exactly one week – yes, unusually, it starts in a Tuesday. The festival has now consolidated its 5 days long format (even though the first two are nothing but “warm-up” days, with concerts taking place on the small stage from 8pm on) and this is us trying to point out which gigs you should pay the most attention to. If you still haven’t, head here to print the beautiful timetables we did with the great folks at P3.

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Sensible Soccers. Fernando Rodrigues

Day 1, 13/Aug

Sensible Soccers (21:55) steal the spotlight on a day that looks like a “foreigners, please help yourself to some decent Portuguese bands” showcase. They’ve just released a fresh new single and they’ll probably play some new songs off their yet untitled debut LP to be released until the end of the year. Electro-powered danceteria follows with Discotexas alumnus Moullinex (23:20) and a DJ set by some dudes who call themselves The Filthy Pigs (00:50), but be sure to arrive there early: even though we don’t really think alternative rock bisons O Bisonte (20:50) fit this lineup, if you enjoy songs you’ll surely enjoy TAPE JUNk (19:50), an interesting – to say the least – homage to the country/folk classics we all know and love by Julie and the Carjackers’ João Correia.

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Alabama Shakes. (AS Facebook page)

Day 2 – 14/Aug

We’ve talked about Discotexas before, and a band comprised of a shitload of artists from said label storms the Vodafone FM stage at the beginning of day 2 (19:50), the first with international artists. 00s indie psychedelia act Unknown Mortal Orchestra (21:00) are up next, blending a flicker of modernity with 60s infectiously mushroomy pop and Kevin Barnes before Alabama Shakes’ (22:15) traditionalism based on R&B and early rock and roll music brings us what will probably be the best moment of the festival so far. Can’t wait to check out Brittany Howard’s soulful voice live. From Agadez to Nashville, desert rocker Bombino (23:40) is the responsible for the “world music” moment of this years’ Paredes de Coura after being discovered by Black Keys’ Dan Auerbach, thus making Omara Bombino Moctarin someone to look upon for people who listen the same 50 indie pop/rock records that every major indie music publication usually champion every year. The party goes on with a Headbirds DJ set (00:50). They’ve released something in the new Primavera record label, which is akin to stamping ‘quality’ all over an act’s name.

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Hot Chip. (HC Facebook page)

Day 3, 15/Aug

First “proper” day of the festival that starts with the traditional concert at the “Jazz in the Grass” stage, outside the festival bounds, in the riverside right next to the camping site. NACO opens this stage (15:30) with his fingerpicked instrumental songs, paving the way for dream poppy Widowspeak (18:00) in the Vodafone FM (VFM) stage. The Brooklynites are one of the bands to watch in a day marked by most bands’ irrelevance, at least for people older than 21 who can grow a beard, thus we’ll proceed by just namedropping close-to-mainstream indie pop bands which audience will be composed of 99% kids and smily girls: Everything Everything (18:40, Vodafone stage), Veronica Falls (not again, Jesus Christ) (19:15, VFM) and Jagwar Ma (19:55, Vodafone). 90s-inspired, guitar-heavy dreamers Toy (20:25, VFM) will probably heat up things a little bit before The Vaccines (21:20, V) allow everyone who’s over 21 and has a decent taste enjoy themselves a nice, warm dinner away from the main stage. While Victoria Christina Hesketh’s Little Boots (21:40, VFM) kind of appeals to a similar demographic, at least she seems to know how to party, successfuly warming up people for the real festivity of day 3: Hot Chip (22:50, V), a powerful dance machine with a handful of records on its wing and another handful of absolute dance classics for the millenial generation in the other (“Over and Over”, “Ready for the Floor”, “And I Was A Boy From School”, “I Feel Better”, “Don’t Deny Your Heart”, the list goes on), to be followed by a exquisite performance by The Knife (00:20), which we can’t really consider as a concert, at least judging from accounts we read online. Read this one at Quietus or let yourself be surprised. Opinions vary a lot, ranging from the usual “OMG LIFECHANGING” to the also usual “What? This isn’t music, most of it was pre-recorded, wtf, I want my money back”. Spanish producer John Talabot (02:00, VFM) and Joe Goddard’s The 2 Bears (03:10, VFM) keep the party moving in the first afterhours of this years’ edition of the festival.

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Echo & the Bunnymen. (E&tB Facebook page) 

Day 4, 16/Aug

Oldie post-punkers Echo & the Bunnymen (23:05, V) are the highlight in yet another day of Vodafone Paredes de Coura fueled by innocuous adolescent brit indie pop/rock (The Horrors (21:35, V), Citizens! (19:15, VFM) and Peace (20:05, V)). Good national values are here to save the day, though: singer-songwriter Noiserv (18:00, VFM) will most likely showcase some new songs off his soon-to-be-released follow up to the excellent EP “A Day in the Day of the Days”, and Barcelos garage rockers The Glockenwise (18:50, V) will present their new album (which they already did in other festivals around the country like Optimus Primavera Sound, Marés Vivas or Fusing) in the big stage. The main focus of interest of day 4 will be divided by the two coolest bands (and yes, that’s a pun with the names of both acts) to take the Vodafone FM stage, though: Danish grim punkers Iceage (20:35) will surely provide the biggest amount of moshpit action in a kinda gutless festival and electro-goth-pop darlings Cold Cave (21:55) will try to prove if they’re worthy of sharing stages with sacred beasts like Gary Numan or Boyd Rice. Simian Mobile Disco (00:50) will, like Hot Chip, try to turn the festival site into a giant dancing arena, before Delorean (02:00) and Will Saul (03:10) narrow it all down to the small stage again. We’re quite curious to see what the new album by the Basque outfit sounds like. And we don’t really know who Will is. Better call Saul! (0/10).

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Calexico. (Facebook page)

Day 5, 17/Aug

Hands down, the best day of this years’ edition of the festival. The “adventurous pop music” of Portuguese electronic musician :papercutz (18:00, VFM) opens the most interesting day in the secondary stage and is followed by lo-fi prince and cassette lover Matt Mondanile (Real Estate), and his side project Ducktails (19:10). Meanwhile, Barcelos’ stoners Black Bombaim (18:30, V) tear the main stage apart before Palma Violets (19:30, V), the next big thing when it comes to skinny-jeans adolescent brit rock (yes, more of this AGAIN) gather a ton of kiddos around the stage again. And then, well, fuck everything this world still has to offer: after having to endure a ton of boring concerts throughout the course of the past two days, destiny wanted two of the most interesting bands in the lineup to overlap: while singer-songwriter Matt Houck (Phosphorescent, 20:20, VFM) presents his latest album, Muchacho – undoubtly one of the best of the year, so far – Calexico (20:40, V) plays their first show in Portuguese soil after 2004’s concerts in Gaia and Lisbon. That’s nine years. Please, never again. Expect stellar desert-inspired songs, Mariachi music, some Spanish lyrics thrown here and there, a lot of horns and every single good thing the USA-Mexican border has to offer to poor Portuguese who never even crossed the Atlantic. And yes, I’m too excited for the Calexico show, which almost makes me forget about Belle and Sebastian (22:10, V). Perfect twee pop songs for us to sit down in the grass and start depressing while thinking about packing and leaving the morning after. Either that, or if you’re one of the cheerful ones, you could shake your head for a little bit in the Vodafone FM stage with sludgy garage rockers Bass Drum of Death (21:35), preparing to go out with a bang with a Justice DJ set (23:55, V). In case you survive, math-rockers And So I Watch You from Afar (02:00, VFM) are waiting for your necks at the afterhours stage, before you go clubbin’ again with XXXY (03:10, VFM) and indie-electro-pop-rock DJ Phizz (05:00, VFM). Then, you see someone singing/shouting either folk standard “Goodnight Irene” or Bobby Bare’s “Detroit City” (lol, bankruptcy) while heading home for the last time, come and join him if you know the lyrics.

DSS

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Vodafone Paredes de Coura 2013 Printable Timetable

Vodafone Paredes de Coura 2013 Printable Timetable

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Festival Paredes de Coura 2012, day 2

© Hugo Lima

Willis Earl Beal © Hugo Lima

So the first official day (Main Stage was finally ready to welcome the festival goers) started with former homeless Willis Earl Beal. When I saw that black dude coming to the stage my mind couldn’t stop thinking of Motown. At the moment he started singing I saw James Carr (a little bit more caustic) and Tom Waits. Although he was stage-alone and the instruments were recorded and played live, Willis Earl Bell conquered the small audience with his peculiar way of tale-telling.

© Hugo Lima

Kitty, Daisy & Lewis © Hugo Lima

Time to peek into the main stage. I’ve missed you, dude. And what a way to open the main stage! One of my favorites, Kitty, Daisy & Lewis never seem to amaze me. Family Durham play a irresistible mix of 50’s rock n’ roll/ska/everybody dancing that can’t be forgotten. Totally a debut in Portugal and probably one of the most underrated bands in all the lineup. I saw them in Spain back in 2010, but I have to point that in Paredes they looked more motivated. And I was in better company.

Midlake reminded me of the Appalachian Mountains and I’ve never been there. In a crowded stage full of different instruments (e.g. flutes, keyboards, and the customary folk acoustic guitar), Tim Smith and his beardy bandmates conquered the mainstage with their  folk, reminded me of the Fleet Foxes, even though they’ve been in the music scene way before them. Probably one of the most adequate shows considering the sunset.

© Hugo Lima

Patrick Watson © Hugo Lima

Patrick Watson sure is a welcomed guy here in Portugal. Countless are the times he’s been in Portugal, with full concerts almost all over the country.  Wasn’t different  this time. Dozens of fans were already queuing at the secondary stage,  trying to get close to him as possible. Shifting in between the piano and the microphone and getting lauded song after song, Patrick sure was a happy man. With an intimist set (as expected) Watson took a hold of all the lonely hearts and ended solo on the stage: just him, his piano and a dim light.

Sleigh Bells © Hugo Lima

Back to the main stage Alexis Krauss told Derek: lover I am still here breaking chairs. If Patrick Watson was more like a delicate bird, Sleigh Bells just bombed the stage. You read it right, bombed. WWII B-17 Flying Fortresses were nothing compared to what was just happening. Totally overwhelming Krauss kept dancing and singing in front of blasting amps in a peculiar fashion. Crossing pop with hardcore punk, Sleigh Bells were probably one of the best shows that the festival ever had. Not suitable for epileptics.

© Hugo Lima

dEUS © Hugo Lima

For the third time in Paredes de Coura, dEUS are always a favorite. With seven records and a handful of great songs, dEUS were welcomed by a huge crowd. The once grassy floor was completely covered by the feet of more than 20,000 persons.  Starting with “The Architect”, followed by “Constant Now” the claps and screaming made me realize how popular they actually are here. Crowd favorites like “Instant Street” and “Suds & Soda” delighted the audience and there was still time for a new song in French. A little bit short show but Tom Barman still does it right.

© Hugo Lima

Digitalism © Hugo Lima

Digitalism was the chosen band to close the main stage. And it was a challenging task. Electro-rock, pure fun, catchy sounds and a visually appealing show conquered the crowd who didn’t wanted to leave the stage. Just two dudes standing still on stage with their keyboards. The crowd was going along with their music, waiting for the big electro rock pumps which turned out a huge dancing scene. Pogo, probably one of their most known songs closed their concert and eventually the stage, making time for an unusual thing in a show like this: moshing. Oh, the drugs.

After hours was handed to Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs (catchy electronic) and Kavinsky (Ed Banger’s hangout, probably most known for his song “Nightcall”), made probably one of the most crowded afterhours set in the whole festival. 

JFC

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Festival Paredes de Coura 2012 – Day 1

You know, It’s rainy. My sixth year and I’ve never witnessed such a monsoon. To make things better I was camping, my tent got completely soaked and with it all my clothes and mostly all my food. I needed a bucket to drain the water, so I decided to sleep on my car until the sun decided to show up. Bear Grylls is a spoiled brat when compared to what I’ve been through.

© Hugo Lima

 © Hugo Lima

Anyway, let’s jump forward. Concerts. First thing, compared to the last day this one had a lot more to offer.

Sun Araw started early, first show of the day. As usual, Cameron Stallones brought us a cosmic voyage even Carl Sagan would be jealous of. Guitars full of echoes and different vibes presented the tenacious audience. Especially those who were high on mescaline.

One of the most expected bands on the whole – Japandroids – just followed. Vancouver born and raised the duo delighted the audience. With their fast and aggressive play style they conquered all of the soggy hearts in the public, and, eventually, the moshing started. The house that heaven built was probably the most well received song among everyone and there was even time for a little sing along on the chorus.

 Japandroids © Hugo Lima

I confess I’m not a fan of tUnE-yArDs (fuck this typo), but I guess everyone digged them and I heard wonders after the show. First of all I’m not fan of androgynous girls but I guess you must be different these days, right?

Anyway, it was a happy show, and I’m glad it was. Everytime Merrill Garbus clapped everyone did. She was such a crowd pleaser. The music, you know how it is. Can’t say it isn’t catchy… but I’m not the biggest fan. Sorry guys.  Anyhow, if you’re fan of the band I guess you’d be pleased watching them, especially Merrill.

 tUnE-yArDs © Hugo Lima

Now the moment I’ve been waiting for. As a fan of Pavement (especially Wowee Zowee), Malkmus is one of my favorite songwriters. Unfortunately it wasn’t Pavement playing but nevertheless Malkmus needed the main stage. C’mon. Diss dudes. That’s what you did.

Mostly playing his latest Mirror Traffic, a somehow less noisier record, the crowd just didn’t noticed what was happening. Apart from – supposedly – most known songs like Tigers or Senator both featured on their latest, there was still time for some oldies (e.g. Jenny and The Ess Dog, Church on White) and even for a Pavement cover (Speak, See, Remember). Standard (amazing) rock show just happened. God bless you, Stephen.

 Stephen Malkmus & The Jicks © Hugo Lima

Now time for some Friends. Exactly, to meet my friends. But there was still time to witness the beautiful Samantha Urbani disguised as a policewoman (?) and making every guy in the crowd tempted.  She tried to please the audience with crowdsurfing, references to Pussy Riot (the russian band, etc) and I guess the crowd digged her. Not literally, but they wished.

 Friends © Hugo Lima

Portuguese favorite fatty (see day 0 post) was back now with a band named PAUS (sticks). With a strong bass, frantic keyboard and double drums they seem to be one of the favorites among the public. One of their members, Hélio Morais just gave back the warm acceptance saying that “Paredes de coura é amor” (Paredes de coura is Love, more or less like this.) Guess you’ll always be welcome here.

 Nice Shirt. PAUS © Hugo Lima

Nuno Lopes was the chosen DJ the close the close the stage. Classic.

JFC

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Festival Paredes de Coura 2012 – Day 0

 © Hugo Lima

First of all I have to say I’m sorry for the delay in publishing this. But a week camping under extreme weather conditions surely chew some bone and I’ve been sick this whole week. Expect my personal opinion in the next days, starting with…

DAY 0:

So another year went by, and it’s my 6th Paredes de Coura in a row. The 20th edition was blessed by rain. Or unblessed. Anyway, before it started everybody was quite apprehensive of how it would go, every single person was full of doubts. “The lineup isn’t good enough for this special edition”, ”how come Stephen Malkmus and the Jicks are going to play in the secondary stage”, “the audience is so much awkward this year*”; these statements were heard all over the place. 

*(Paredes de Coura is known to have a special kind of public, which is also acknowledged by most of the bands.)

Despite some problems, Ritmos, as always proved us no wrong. They surely are the best festival producers in Portugal and they sure care for their public.

BUTTTTTTTTTTTTTT. If you’re reading this, I hope you carry the following thought in your mind until next year:

Please do something about the secondary stage. If the main stage is probably the best site to watch shows, the secondary stage position (flat ground only allows the taller people to enjoy the concerts. Plus, check the schedules. Bands like Japandroids, S. Malkmus and the Jicks should never ever be played at the second stage.

First night happened exclusively on the already famous secondary stage. All bands were Portuguese. Brass Wires Orchestra had the responsibility/pleasure of opening the stage but I wasn’t expecting much. Just another nobody-cares band like Salto or League, but, guess what? Brass Wires Orchestra was a must.

 Brass Wires Orchestra © Hugo Lima

If you’re a fan of Beirut and Mumford & Sons I’m pretty sure you’ll dig these guys. With classical indie-folk instrumentation, what really pointed their sound were the brass instruments (hence the band name). Besides playing some of their originals, there was also time for covers of bands such as the Typhoons and Mumford and Sons. They saved love to end when one of their elements stated that “the last one was meant to spread the love”. And guess what name it had? “Love someone”.

Rain started to fall when Salto were almost in the middle of their show and I was getting soaking wet. Truth is, they didn’t do much to dry me up.

After a psychadelic bore by League, everybody was expecting B Fachada. Rain kept falling when he jumped into stage. Named by some as the guy who gave portuguese music confidence and usually a guy with a more intimist set, he surprised everyone when he played almost completely his new album, Criolo, which is known for using sounds not so usual to Fachada’s last records. Starting with “Quem Quer Fumar com B Fachada?” (Who wants to smoke with B Fachada?) and ending with “Deus, Pátria e Família” (God, Country, Family – a catchphrase used by our last beloved dictator, António de Oliveira Salazar) B Fachada show was more likely stolen from a tiny village ball. And that’s a good thing.

 B Fachada © Hugo Lima

Portuguese’s favorite fatty Quim Albergaria was the chosen knight to close the day 0. Former The Vicious Five vocals and PAUS drummer he also has fun touching the turntable (no pun intended). His motto “I play too much Beyonce and don’t play The Smiths” somehow worked. With beats to shake even the most paraplegic of bootys, Albergaria was the perfect guy to close the stage. But c’mon, you could have played just ONE Smiths song. Moz is sad now. Ok, not just now.

Our favorite The Smiths fan © João Ruivo

Can’t say the fans didn’t try.

JFC